An update on the HTTPS client certificate issue

Attention conservation notice: If you’re here for the food, you can skip this post — maybe another recipe post coming towards the end of the month.

I wrote a while back about moves in the browser world to deprecate client certificate authentication. Things have moved on a bit, and at work today I did a presentation and community discussion about the issue and what we’re going to do about it. (Summary: in the near term, we’ll be adopting OpenID Connect to centralize the actual authentication piece of this, which will allow us to swap in other mechanisms — or delegate the actual authentication to someone else — as alternatives become available.) My slides are available although (because of the room it was held in) neither the talk itself nor the discussion afterward were recorded.

Aside | Posted on by | Tagged , , ,

Recipe quick takes: A disappointing whole-grain Honey Cake from King Arthur Flour

Caution: I did this eight days ago. I didn’t bake anything this (three-day) weekend, so there was less pressure to get it written up than usual (I try to avoid queuing multiple recipes) because I was planning on doing a 65-mile bike ride today (which didn’t happen for reasons I won’t explain here). In any event, that means that I’m less than usually familiar with the process of baking this cake, and in any event, it wasn’t particularly good anyway. I’ll be out of town next weekend, so there will be a substantial gap before the next recipe post.

The cake in question is called simply “Honey Cake”, and it appears in King Arthur Flour’s Whole Grain Baking (Countryman Press, 2006; p. 421) — a cookbook from which I have otherwise had excellent results. The parts list is pretty simple:

Mise en place
Clockwise from bottom left: four eggs; two ounces (55 g) of sour cream; 5 oz (140 g) of whole-wheat flour and 3⅛ oz (90 g) of all-purpose flour (in the same bowl); 1½ sticks (170 g) of unsalted butter; 12 oz (340 g) of honey; 3 oz (85 g) of sliced almonds; and finally, ½ tsp each of salt and baking soda (in the same bowl).

Butter-honey(-egg?) mixture
The recipe proceeds by beating together the wet ingredients — you can’t really call it creaming here, because the honey doesn’t have big crystals to punch holes in butterfat the way actual sugar does. The dry ingredients (such as they are) are mixed in the usual way and then stirred in, and the sour cream and ¼ cup of the almonds are stirred in to finish the batter.

Prepared pan with sliced almonds
Most of the almonds go into the bottom of the prepared nine-inch (225 mm) cake pan; the batter is poured on top of the almonds, which will form the top of the cake when it’s inverted after baking. This cake is baked in a fairly low oven, 325°F (160°C), for about 50 minutes.

Cooled cake inverted onto cake stand
After cooling on a wire rack for 15 minutes or so, the cake can be inverted onto a serving platter (or a cake stand as I did) and allowed to cool the rest of the way. You can see that some of the batter made its way underneath the almond layer on the bottom, so good pan preparation is essential.

Cake on stand with powdered sugar topping
After letting the cake cool completely, you can (if you want) sift powdered sugar on top before serving. To serve, I sliced the cake into 16 wedges in the usual way, but I didn’t do that at home, so I have no pictures.

I found the cake to be entirely too dry and lacking in any noticeable flavor; even the almonds were subdued, crunchy but not flavorful. I can think of any number of possible improvements: a more strongly flavored honey (raw, rather than hot-filtered) would be one obvious change, but the recipe didn’t suggest any particular type of honey, and I was loath to try a more flavorful (but super-expensive) varietal. (The honey I used was McLure’s orange blossom honey, which for some reason is now cheaper than the clover honey of my youth.) One could also imagine adding fruit, spices, flavorings, or citrus peel, all of which would have given it some sort of interest that was lacking. First and foremost, I think an unsaturated fat, rather than butter, would have given a much moister mouth feel — but then you’re back at something more like Rosetta Costantino’s Ciambella all’Arancia, which was very well received.

Nutrition

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 1/16 cake
Servings per recipe: 16
Amount per serving
Calories 251 Calories from fat 123
% Daily Value
Total Fat 14​g 21%
 Saturated Fat 7​g 34%
Trans Fat 0​g
Cholesterol 73​mg 24%
Sodium 129​mg 5%
Total Carbohydrate 30​g 10%
 Dietary fiber 2​g 8%
 Sugars 17​g
Proteins 5​g 9%
Vitamin A 9%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 2%
Iron 4%
Posted in Food | Tagged , , , ,

Other People’s Recipes: Joanne Chang’s Double-Chocolate Cookies

This gallery contains 11 photos.

These are among my favorite cookies at Joanne Chang’s Flour Bakery+Cafe, and I finally got around to making them myself, from the recipe in her cookbook Flour (Chronicle Books, 2010; p. 106). The preparation is more than a bit unusual, as … Continue reading

Gallery | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Thinking about Canada in 1988 and Finland in 2017…

I grew up during the 1980s at a ski area in Northern Vermont. One of the surprising ways this influenced who I turned out to be was through television: although there was and is an ABC affiliate in the television market (WVNY, channel 22, in Burlington), the mountain where we lived was so close to the transmitter site on Mount Mansfield that we couldn’t see it. (We also couldn’t get either local PBS station, there was no such thing as cable, and my mother wouldn’t even consider having a three-meter-wide satellite dish in the front yard like many other rural Vermonters at the time.) As a result, that morning in November, 1983, when all of my classmates showed up at school freaked out over The Day After, I had no idea what the big deal was — it had aired (only) on ABC, where I couldn’t see it.

Although we didn’t get ABC, and the only PBS station I could see (through the “snow”) was from Norwood, New York, more than 100 miles away, we did get crystal-clear signals from all of the major Canadian networks’ Montreal transmitters atop Mount Royal. (For the broadcast geeks out there, at the time they were CBFT 2 , Canada’s oldest television station, with Radio-Canada; CBMT 6 with CBC; CFTM 10 with TVA; CFCF 12 with CTV; CIVM 17 with Télé-Québec; and, after it signed on in 1986, CFJP 35 with what was then Télévision Quatre Saisons. Global wasn’t in Quebec yet.) This meant that, for most of my formative years, I spent a good deal of time watching Canadian television, which most of America didn’t have access to and even most of my peers never saw. I have no memories of MTV, for example (remember: no cable out in the sticks), but both CBC and CTV had daily half-hour music-video compilation shows (which of course featured a lot of Canadian bands nobody in my peer group had ever heard of). During the 1980s, ABC held the US broadcast rights to many of the major sporting events, like the Olympics, and many winter sports received little or no US broadcast coverage at any other time (hockey, for example, was only on cable after one year of select games on CBS).

Canada being a country that actually has winter, and cares about winter sports in a way that most of the US doesn’t, the Canadian stations carried lots of sports that I would not have seen otherwise. Curling never appealed to me, but I could watch FIS Alpine World Cup ski racing on “CBC Sportsweekend” through much of the winter (when we weren’t out skiing together as a family — recreationally; I only ever raced once, in a Boy Scout event at Bromley), and the World Figure Skating Championships were a highlight of every year (even though I never learned to skate). I can remember watching several Worlds with the late Toller Cranston providing commentary, I think mostly for the CBC, and there was a Canadian pairs team who later took over that job — whose names I’ve unfortunately forgotten, although I can still hear their voices in my head.

By 1987, things weren’t going so well for me at the parochial high school I was attending, and we started to look for alternatives for my senior year. I could try to make it through, or I could transfer to the public high school (which probably would have been my best option, but the prospect of mandatory phys. ed. terrified me). A third option was to try to do an exchange year in another country, and this was the option my parents and I pursued. I signed up to do a school year abroad with Youth for Understanding, and my parents somehow found the money to pay for it. One drawback of signing up for an exchange program for your senior year of high school is that you might not get in to the country of your choice, and once you graduate, you’re no longer eligible — so you’d better pick a country that has sufficient slots available to ensure you won’t be put on a waiting list. At YFU, you had to submit three choices of countries. It was obvious that my first and second choices would be France and French-speaking Belgium (Wallonia and Flanders were treated as separate countries for this purpose), and it was just as obvious that I wasn’t going to get into either one. I had until the end of February, 1988, to come up with a third-choice country to put on my application.

What else was going on in February, 1988, perchance? The Winter Olympics, of course! They were broadcast in the US on ABC, which we couldn’t get, but Canada being the host nation (they were in Calgary that year), there was full coverage not only on CTV, the host broadcaster, but also on the CBC news programs. (The Winter Olympics didn’t move to the current cycle until 1994; before then, Winter and Summer Games were always in the same year.) I programmed the family VCR to record the Olympics coverage and devoured as much as I had time for. (I still have some of those old videotapes today — but I haven’t had a working VHS deck in ages!) The biggest star of the Calgary games (ignoring the widely hyped figure-skating showdown between American skater Brian Boitano and Canadian Brian Orser) was a Finnish ski jumper named Matti Nykänen. This somehow put it into my head that maybe Finland would be an interesting place to go, and after going to the library and reading encyclopedia articles (on paper!) about the country and the language, I put Finland down as the third-preference country on my application.

Of course France and Belgium (French-speaking) were full up, because lots of other high-school kids had studied French, and everyone naturally wanted a leg up on the native language of their host country. Finland, on the other hand, had plenty of slots available, and I got in. There certainly was some concern about whether I could learn the language by immersion — it’s not an Indo-European langauge, but rather Uralic, and so has few cognates with English or French — but I convinced the YFU interviewer that I was interested enough in languages that I might have a chance. So off to Finland I went, in July, 1988. My first host family didn’t work out — the mother had somehow taken a dislike to me, and the family as a whole was too fluent in English for me to effectively learn Finnish — and after a month of school there, I got shipped off to stay with a childless couple (probably a mistake that they were even in the program) in a rural area about an hour from the north-central Finnish city of Kuopio. That worked out for seven months, but in April, 1989, I was unceremoniously shipped back home, and had to complete my senior year in my old high school anyway. (In hindsight, given what was going on in central Europe at the time, I clearly should have picked West Germany or Austria — the language would have been easier to learn and more feasible to prepare for, and I would have been a witness to the most important historical events of my lifetime. I even knew about this to some extent, and had had a letter published in the Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists about Poland getting connected to FidoNet!)

While I was in Finland, my parents had moved, so when I returned home, it wasn’t really “home” as I knew it, but we now had cable and could watch ABC and MTV if we wanted. Luckily, the cable system at that time still carried some of the Montreal channels — at least the CBC and CTV — and I continued to watch a lot of Canadian television, including The National/The Journal nearly every weeknight. (Skipping over a bit here that isn’t relevant to the story…) I watched (and recorded, on that very same VCR) the CBC’s coverage of the 1992 Winter Olympics in Albertville, France — the first Olympics after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, so soon thereafter, in fact, that the ex-Soviet athletes all competed as the “Unified Team” because their countries had not yet had a chance to set up national teams. Then my parents moved away, and I found myself living alone in a cheap student apartment in downtown Burlington for the rest of my university education; I started to watch hockey more, and in 1993 I got to see the Montreal Canadiens win the Stanley Cup — they were as close as anything to being my “hometown team”, having grown up watching Montreal television and on occasion making the 90-minute drive (or two-hour train trip) to visit in person.

I moved to Boston in 1994 and gradually stopped paying attention to televised winter sports, especially being stuck as I was with what I saw as poor-quality coverage of the sports I cared about on NBC (when those sports even aired at all — I have no idea who would have carried ski racing in the nineties and aughts). The fact that I wasn’t really in any position to participate even in those sports I had previously enjoyed, like cycling and skiing, didn’t help matters either. Eventually I did begin to tune in again, as more of the sports became available on cable, and especially once I got a TiVo and could record the horribly-scheduled broadcasts to play them back during my evening stationary-bike workouts. Even the Olympics regained some attraction, with new streaming video options making it practical to see the unedited feeds with international commentary rather than the “homer” NBC broadcasters.

As this is getting long, let’s skip forward to 2016. In late February, as I was driving home from work on the Massachusetts Turnpike, I saw billboards for the 2016 World Figure Skating Championships. It took me a week or so to finally decide that I would start paying attention to the sport again, after a break of nearly 25 years. I was able to get a great seat for the men’s short program, which took place last Wednesday, and only had to take half a day off work to see it; I got a good seat for the men’s free skate, last Friday (up in the balcony rather than down in the lower sections, called “loges” at TD Garden). I had terrible seats for the pairs final on Saturday afternoon, in the very highest row, with the lighting truss blocking my view of the screen where the competitors’ scores were being displayed — but even bad seats have a decent view of the ice itself, unlike the old Boston Garden. At Saturday’s competition, I bought a copy of the program ($15 seems a bit excessive), and in the back, they had a full-page insert for the 2017 Worlds — in Helsinki.

This set a train of thought in motion. In recent years, whenever I’ve gone to visit my parents, they’ve asked me when I was going to go back to Finland. I’ve been pretty cool on this, since I still have some pretty bad feelings about my time there and how I ended up leaving. But 2017 is Finland’s centennial as an independent state, and it has been nearly three decades since the unhappy events of April, 1989, and I found that I actually liked watching the skating in person a lot more than on television, so I started to seriously look into it. The tickets are already on sale! Worldcon 75 memberships, also being held in Helsinki in 2017, are also on sale — that was the event I was originally thinking might draw me back to Finland, if anything did; it’s later in the year, when the weather is nicer, but it has the drawback that I’d be going alone, because there’s no one I know who I might even plausibly ask to go to a Worldcon with me, and I hate traveling alone.

Figure skating, on the other hand, was always family viewing, so I might actually persuade my parents to travel to Finland with me. Now that they are both retired, it’s much easier for them to schedule travel, but on the negative side, any kind of travel to Europe is challenging for senior citizens on a fixed income. I make a decent salary, so I’ll probably end up picking up a good chunk of the bill (including the tickets to the competition, at EUR 800 or so per person). I wish, though that there was someone in my life who wasn’t a senior citizen, but enjoyed travel and would go to a foreign country with me. But not all the things we want are necessarily available to us, so I’ll have to content myself with the opportunity that I have.

Posted in Broadcasting & Media, States of mind | Tagged , , , , , , , , , ,

Recipe quick takes: King Arthur Flour’s Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies

This is the second year in a row that I’ve done a chocolate-chip cookie recipe from King Arthur’s “The Baker’s Catalogue”. I usually don’t find these recipes worth bothering with, as most of them are designed to use some partially-prepared ingredient mix that I would never have any use for otherwise, but somebody seems to have decided that the third week of March would be “National Chocolate Chip Cookie Week”, and chocolate-chip cookie recipes generally don’t include such specialty products, so that’s one recipe I can probably make some use of. (And what do people think of this typography? Left to my own devices, I would always write “chocolate-chip cookie”, but the catalogue uses the open (unhyphenated) compound throughout.) This year’s recipe is for “Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies”, and is made with both honey and white whole-wheat flour in addition to the traditional ingredients. The overall proportions are also quite a bit different, with a much higher chocolate-chip-to-dough ratio than I’m accustomed to. The result is a stiffer cookie that spreads much less in the oven, and does not develop the butterscotch/toffee flavor of the traditional recipe. I guessed that the recipe had been edited somewhat for space, and went for a more standard construction method than what’s actually called for in the catalogue, but I was pretty happy with the results. However, I’ll probably be returning to my old standby in the future if I want “ordinary” chocolate-chip cookies. Here’s how it all went down:

Mise en place
The mise is mostly standard, but with a few surprises. For fat, this recipe starts with a mere 3 oz (85 g) of unsalted butter, far less than the Default Recipe’s 8 oz. (I was a little short and made up the difference with the slightly darker-colored salted butter seen in back — I wouldn’t normally recommend doing this but in this amount the additional salt doesn’t make much difference, and you can always reduce the salt elsewhere in the recipe.) There are three sugars here: in the mixing bowl, 2⅜ oz (60 g) of granulated sugar and 3¾ oz (105 g) of light brown sugar; in the large mise cup next to the butter, the third sugar is 2¼ oz (65 g) of a neutral-flavored honey (I think I used orange-blossom honey). The other liquid ingredients are pure vanilla extract (2 tsp), one large egg, and a tablespoon of cider vinegar. On the dry team, in addition to the 8 oz (225 g) of white whole-wheat flour (no all-purpose flour here!), we have a half-teaspoon each of baking soda and baking powder, ¾ tsp (3 g) of salt, and — unusually — half a teaspoon of espresso powder. Very unusually, the recipe also calls for a full 18 oz (510 g) of chocolate chips, or about 50% more chips than normally used; I chose Guittard 46% semisweet chocolate chips for this recipe. The recipe gives an odd procedure for mixing the ingredients; I ignored that and used the standard creaming method (with a hand mixer since the butter volume is too small to cream properly in my stand mixer), switching to a large rubber spatula to fold in the chocolate chips.

Portioned cookie dough on a baking sheet
The recipe suggests a “tablespoon cookie scoop” (or what I would call “a number 60 disher”) to portion the dough; I used a #40 disher instead, giving 28 somewhat larger cookies. (Actually, I lie — I only got 26 cookies. But I estimate that I ate about two cookies’ worth of dough during the preparation!) These are arranged in a 3×4 array on parchment-lined cookie sheets and baked in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 10–11 minutes. Unlike traditional chocolate-chip cookies, you want to pull these out before they take color: otherwise the cookies would be dry and hard rather than soft as desired.

Fully baked cookies cooling on baking sheet
When the cookies come out, they need to cool on a wire rack for ten minutes before moving. If you have heavy cookie sheets like I do, they’ll still be quite hot at the end of this, and the cookies will still be cooking, at least on the bottom, for most of that time, so it’s doubly important to take them out of the oven before they start to brown.

All 26 cookies cooling on wire rack
After cooling on the cookie sheet for ten minutes, the cookies can be transferred to another wire rack to cool completely, which could take as long as an hour, before storing them in an airtight container.

Nutrition

These are not quite as bad for you as the traditional recipe, which should not be too surprising considering the whole-wheat flour and substantially reduced butter and egg (given that the yield is approximately the same number of cookies) — so you can feel free to have two of these when you’re limited to just one of the traditional recipe. However, I’ve done the analysis below with a one-cookie serving size; if you use the smaller #60 disher, these numbers will be even lower.

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 1 cookie (approx. 37g)
Servings per recipe: 28
Amount per serving
Calories 167 Calories from fat 70
% Daily Value
Total Fat 8g 13%
 Saturated Fat 5g 23%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 13mg 4%
Sodium 94mg 4%
Total Carbohydrate 25g 8%
 Dietary fiber 2g 8%
 Sugars 18g
Proteins 3g 5%
Vitamin A 2%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 1%
Iron 10%
Posted in Food | Tagged , , , , ,

Other people’s recipes: Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Banana-Coconut Bread for Pam

This post marks the end of my previously scheduled winter baking program. I have one more recipe to write up (a chocolate-chip cookie); I don’t have immediate plans for other recipes but they will probably be in a similar vein for a while, because we are approaching the season at work when a great surfeit of “free” food is distributed. Today’s recipe comes from Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s cookbook Home Baking (Artisan, 2003; p. 145); it makes two 9×5 loaves of banana bread. None of my tasters could recognize a coconut flavor in this “Banana-Coconut Bread”, but the texture was noticeable when pointed out to people.

Mise en place
Like any banana bread, this one starts with very ripe bananas. Because they very so much in size, it’s pretty common for recipes to specify the volume of liquefied banana; to make two 9″×5″ (225×125 mm) loaves takes three cups (720 ml) of mashed banana — I used a food mill, but the recipe actually calls for doing it in a blender. Other ingredients seen here (counterclockwise) are 17 oz (485 g) of all-purpose flour, two tablespoons of demerara sugar (for sprinkling, so exact measurement is not required), a teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg, half a tablespoon of baking soda, 75 g of unsweetened dried shredded coconut, 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of dark rum mixed with a ½ tsp (2.5 ml) of white vinegar, two sticks (225 g) of unsalted butter, and finally, 400 g of granulated sugar. Note no eggs — you could easily make a vegan version of this recipe by substituting fake butter.

Batter in mixing bowl
The recipe proceeds, somewhat unusually, by a variant of the butter-cake (creaming) method. Most banana breads (which are properly quickbreads) are normally made by the muffin method, using liquid fat, but here we start by creaming solid butter together with the sugar, then adding the flavoring (rum and vinegar), and finally alternating the banana puree and combined dry ingredients in three lifts. Finally, the coconut is stirred in, mixing only until combined. The prepared batter looks like this, and comes to about 1900 g total, which is split between two prepared loaf pans.

Batter portioned into two 9″×5″ loaf pans and sprinkled with demerara sugar
The batter is thick enough that it will not self-level, so after dividing it between the two pans, it’s necessary to get in with a small spatula and spread it out evenly. (Some variation is OK.) Then about a tablespoon of demerara sugar is sprinkled over the top to form a sweet, crunchy coating in the oven. The loaves are baked together in a 350°F (275°C) oven for just about an hour.

Two loaves, baked and cooling in pans
You can see that I didn’t do the greatest possible job in evenly dividing the batter, but other than the cosmetic difference it matters little. I’m not sure what happened in the upper left corner of the left-hand loaf — it seems to have gotten substantially more sugar than anywhere else. In any event, the baked loaves have to cool in their pans (on a wire rack) for about 20 minutes so that the starches in the flour have a chance to set.

Two loaves after depanning
After turning out the two loaves, they must finish cooling on the rack. (If they were left in the pans until completely cool, escaping steam would be trapped next to the crust and eventually condense, causing the crust to become soft if not downright soggy.)

One loaf with a slice cut from the end
After the bread was fully cooled, I took a couple of slices right off for immediate eating. (Luckily I had gotten some exercise already!) You can see the characteristic texture of banana bread here, with the dark specks (what is that, anyway?) that come from pureed banana, giving rise to a much darker color than the ingredients might otherwise suggest.

Twenty-two slices of bread on a platter for service
I then sliced up the remainder of both loaves and set them out on a platter to bring in to the office. Each loaf makes twelve ¾″ (2 cm) slices, for a total of 24 slices — although with a “bread” this soft it’s really hard to accurately measure and cut slices, so I ended up with some thicker and some thinner than spec. I wouldn’t think you were a bad person for cutting larger slices. Everyone who tried it at work liked it, and some tasters liked it quite a lot, but others thought it was nothing special. Nobody noticed the dark rum, even after I told them about it. I had so much of it that it took two days to give it all away.

Nutrition

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: ¾″ slice
Servings per recipe: 24
Amount per serving
Calories 257 Calories from fat 79
% Daily Value
Total Fat 9g 14%
 Saturated Fat 6g 32%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 20mg 7%
Sodium 76mg 3%
Potassium 101mg 3%
Total Carbohydrate 40g 13%
 Dietary fiber 1g 5%
 Sugars 21g
Proteins 3g 6%
Vitamin A 6%
Vitamin C 4%
Calcium 0%
Iron 7%
Posted in Food | Tagged , , , , , ,

Other people’s recipes: Ovenly’s Gooey Honey Blondies

Despite my complaints about how the recipes are written, Agatha Kulaga and Erin Patinkin’s cookbook Ovenly (Harlequin, 2014) does contain enough interesting recipes to make it worth the cost. I’ve already done their Black Chocolate Stout Cake twice, I did two of their brownie recipes for Browniefest, and I have no doubt that I’ll get around to trying their shortbread variations at some point — but the last of the recipes that I marked in my initial scan of this cookbook was “Gooey Honey Blondies” (p. 131). They were indeed gooey, despite not having a huge amount of honey, and they were a pretty big hit in the office when I brought them in. Mine didn’t look very much like the photo shown in the cookbook — they are more chocolatey, perhaps because I followed their “advice for chocolate lovers” and added 50% more chocolate chips. In any event, this is a super-easy dessert to make; here’s the whole process in only seven photos.

Mise en place
We start as always with the mise en place. Clockwise from upper left: 130 g all-purpose flour, pure vanilla extract, a large egg, 5 oz (140 g) unsalted butter, 120 g dark muscovado (my favorite style of dark brown sugar), 90 g (¼ cup or 60 ml) honey, 110 g light brown sugar, 5 g fine sea salt, 45 g chopped untoasted pecans, and 120 g (about ¾ cup) bittersweet (at least 60% cacao) chocolate chips. Note that there is no leavening of any kind, and the butter is in a microwave-safe bowl for melting, so these blondies will be quite dense.

8×8×2 baking pan with parchment "sling"
The blondies are baked in an 8″×8″ (205×205 mm) square baking pan. Rather than the butter and flour preparation the recipe calls for, I made a parchment sling and lubricated the exposed sides of the pan with baking spray.

Wet ingredient mixture
Here’s how simple the procedure for this recipe is:

  1. Melt the butter
  2. Whisk all the wet ingredients together along with the salt (photo above)
  3. Stir in the flour and chocolate chips

Finished batter spread in prepared pan
The resulting batter is quite thick and not self-leveling: it must be spread with a spatula to an even thickness in the baking pan.

Pecans strewn across blondie batter
The chopped pecans are scattered evenly across the top of the raw batter, and then the blondies are baked in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 25–30 minutes; they will still be quite soft even when fully baked. (You could probably substitute chopped walnuts if you don’t have or can’t eat pecans, but I wouldn’t advise other sorts of nuts.) Since the nuts are directly exposed to the oven’s heat, there is no need to toast them in advance.

Cooled blondies extracted from pan for portioning
After letting the blondies cool completely on a wire rack (takes an hour or so), they can be de-panned with the help of the parchment sling and portioned. The recipe headnote suggests cutting into sixteen 2″×2″ (5×5 cm) squares, but if I didn’t have to watch my diet, I’d be inclined to make nine 2⅔″×2⅔″ (7×7 cm) squares instead.

Cross-section of portioned blondies
With the full complement of chocolate chips, these “blondies” turn out incredibly chocolatey — nearly indistinguishable from brownies. They were so gooey that after portioning I stuck the whole batch into the fridge overnight to set up. Although they were still a bit cool after lunch on Monday, I received no complaints. Whether that’s because my coworkers are remarkably uncritical in the face of free food, or because they actually liked them, I’ll never know, but I thought they were pretty good. Of course, I’m inclined to like nearly anything with this much chocolate and brown sugar in it!

Nutrition

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 2″×2″ square
Servings per recipe: 16
Amount per serving
Calories 248 Calories from fat 106
% Daily Value
Total Fat 12g 18%
 Saturated Fat 6g 31%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 32mg 11%
Sodium 98mg 4%
Total Carbohydrate 34g 11%
 Dietary fiber 1g 6%
 Sugars 14g
Proteins 2g 4%
Vitamin A 5%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 1%
Iron 8%
Posted in Food | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Other people’s recipes: Alice Medrich’s Bittersweet Roulade

This gallery contains 10 photos.

I’ve been unforgivably lax in posting lately, so I’m just about three weeks behind at present, but Prairie Home Companion was a rerun today, so I’m going to use some of that time to catch up. I’ll have to apologize … Continue reading

Gallery | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Quote of the day: One of many things wrong with the Internet industry

This has been making the rounds of, yes, social media — at least among the lefty circles I move in — and will appear soon in the paper New York Review of Books:

[MIT psychologist Sherry] Turkle argues against using the term “addiction” because it implies that “you have to discard the addicting substance,” and we aren’t very well “going to ‘get rid’ of the Internet.” But in describing what they’re doing, many of her subjects fall naturally into the language of substance abuse, abstention, and recovery. People colloquially describe sessions online as getting a fix, or refer to disconnection from social media as detoxing or going cold turkey. The industry can’t help talking that way either, about “users” and “devices.” The toll of technology is emotional rather than physical. But the more you read about it, the more you may come to feel that we’re in the middle of a new Opium War, in which marketers have adopted addiction as an explicit commercial strategy. This time the pushers come bearing candy-colored apps.

— Jacob Weisberg, “We Are Hopelessly Hooked”, New York Review of Books, February 25, 2016

Quote | Posted on by | Tagged , ,

Recipe quick takes: Lemon–Poppy Seed Pound Cake

I don’t often do my own recipes here, mostly because there aren’t very many of them, but every so often it will work out that I end up creating something on my own. I was
originally planning to make a chocolate pound cake from Lora Brody’s book, but my travel schedule this month, combined with the contents of my refrigerator, required me to change my plans. So instead I made this lemon–poppy seed pound cake: a true pound cake, made according to the traditional formula — a pound of butter, a pound of flour, a pound of sugar, and a pound of eggs. It’s not entirely traditional, because I used a chemical leavener. Here’s how it went:

Mise en place
Since this is a lemon–poppy seed pound cake, there must obviously be some lemon and some poppy seeds. I used 50 grams (about a third of a cup) of poppy seeds, the zest of two lemons, and two tablespoons of lemon juice to provide those flavors. Only one tablespoon of the juice went into the cake proper, and to neutralize the acid (and also to provide additional lift to the cake) I used a half-tablespoon of baking soda. Three-quarters teaspoon of kosher salt helps to balance out the flavor profile. I ended up using 480 grams of whole eggs, since the eggs I started with were not uniformly sized so I couldn’t get to the target 450 grams (that would be nine large eggs). I also added two teaspoons of vanilla paste.

Like any pound cake, this is made by the creaming method: first the butter and sugar are creamed together until light and fluffy (8–10 minutes), and then the eggs are added, one at a time. Then the flavoring ingredients are added, and finally the combined dry ingredients are stirred in, in three lifts.

If you add up the masses of the major ingredients, you end up with about four pounds of cake batter. That’s a bit too much for a standard tube pan, so I ended up putting about three fourths of the batter into the tube pan, and the remaining quarter into a 4×8 loaf pan. I baked the two together in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 45 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the middle of each cake came out clean.

3 pound cake in tube pan, 1 pound cake in loaf pan
The one-pound cake in the loaf pan ended up a bit too small, and stuck to the bottom; two pounds in a 9×5 loaf pan might well have been a better choice. The three-pound ring cake turned out a bit closer to standard.

Glazed ring cake
I turned the still-warm cake out of the tube pan and applied a glaze made from 200 g of confectioner’s sugar and the remaining lemon juice (with a little bit of water added for consistency).

Glazed loaf cake
I had a bit of trouble turning out the loaf cake but gave it the same treatment. The nutrition information I’ve presented below assumes that you get 24 slices of cake total, but I cut the loaf cake into 8 slices rather than 6 because that was easier. (The ring cake will need to be cut into 18 slices — hopefully I’ll be better than usual at visually estimating thirds!)

Single slice of loaf cake
We had a snowstorm on Monday, and most of my coworkers didn’t make it in to work, but those few that did seemed to quite like it. I didn’t even cut in to the large ring cake, preferring to preserve it for a better occasion. Luckily, Tuesday is our monthly group lunch, which should ensure that everyone gets to try some. It’s moist, lemony, with just the right amount of poppy seed, and by the time you read this, it will probably all be gone.

Nutrition

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 1/24 recipe
Servings per recipe: 24
Amount per serving
Calories 354 Calories from fat 153
% Daily Value
Total Fat 17g 27%
 Saturated Fat 10g 50%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 124mg 41%
Sodium 145mg 6%
Potassium 61mg 2%
Total Carbohydrate 43g 14%
 Dietary fiber 2g 6%
 Sugars 28g
Proteins 4g 9%
Vitamin A 13%
Vitamin C 2%
Calcium 4%
Iron 5%
Posted in Food | Tagged , , ,