What exactly do we mean by “friend”?

One day in the middle of last week, I OD’ed on chocolate while at work. As a result, I felt ashamed and later depressed, but more relevant to this post, I was so buzzed on the natural stimulants chocolate contains that I could not sleep for hours after going to bed. As can happen when you’re depressed but hyperstimulated, my mind kept going in circles, and somehow I got to thinking about who the people were who would show up at my funeral, should some random catastrophe befall me — like those unfortunate souls who have been run over by semi-trucks while cycling on the streets of Boston (something I’ve been doing a bit of lately). Discounting family, I could only come up with four people. Later, in the light of day, and clearer thinking, I realized that this was grossly underestimating: several thousand people would be notified by email or would hear about it some other way, and of those there are at least a hundred who would show up (out of duty if nothing else). But it did get me thinking about who I thought of as my friends, what I understand “friend” to entail, and maybe a bit about why my understanding seems so different from other people’s, particularly the shallow social-media version of “friend” as promoted by Facebook.

I’m not going to quote dictionary definitions here, because I don’t think they are particularly helpful; to use the language of high-school English class, I’m talking connotation here, not denotation. Nor do I have much use for the timeworn cliché “Friends are the family you choose” — which seems to me at best question-begging if not totally meaningless. (At a minimum it assumes some sort of understanding of “family” that doesn’t connect for an only child like me, whose parents live halfway across the country and who never built strong personal relationships with any of his extended family.)

My first attempt was closely related to my depressed early-morning maundering: suppose I were to disappear — alien abduction, anyone? — but nobody ever said anything about it to anyone else (alien mind-control beams or summat). Who would notice, and how long would it take before they realized that someone they knew was no longer among them? But ultimately this is pretty unsatisfactory: like most people who are gainfully employed, there are lots of people who would notice my absence very quickly, simply because they are used to seeing me at work every day, or they have some other sort of professional interaction with me. Some of these people may be friends, or may become friends, but many are just work acquaintances (or “colleagues” as we say in the academic world) — it’s really hard to tell so long as there’s this professional relationship that brings us together in a way that’s not entirely voluntary.

The voluntarity of it is crucial, to my way of thinking. (Did I just make up that word? The OED says no, but I should have said “voluntariness”.) So that led me in a different direction: a friend is someone who voluntarily seeks out one’s company, for reasons outside of one’s professional capacity or family role. This definition allows for the possibility that I may have overlapping roles in my relationships with other people: someone can be a friend and a colleague, although it may be difficult to disentangle the two roles during the time they overlap — which can lead to confusion, unhappiness, or worse. I figured by this definition that I had about half a dozen friends, give or take a couple — at least, that’s about the number of non–family-members who I could remember ever having sought my company outside the context of work. (Some of whom I haven’t been very good friends back to in return: I can think of a few people whose weddings I attended who I have barely seen for five minutes in the past decade.) There are maybe a hundred more who I would count as acquaintances: people who I would greet should we pass on the street but would be surprised if they wished me a happy birthday.

(And there’s another marker right there: a friend probably knows your age if not your exact birthday, and might be the one to organize a surprise party for you even when you make it clear you don’t want a fuss made. A friend probably knows where you live and may well have visited your home, although that’s not necessarily a given — as someone who is both very private and ashamed of his poor housekeeping, I’m not one to be hosting dinner parties or offering a spare bed or sofa, not even for the people who are closest to me.)

A consequence of this definition is that it allows for asymmetry: I may be a friend to people who don’t feel the same way about me, or vice versa. I think this is a good thing — indeed, one of the things I detest most about Facebook is its implicit assumption of symmetry in relationships (others include its essential shallowness, data mining, forced intermediation, and high level of advertising pollution). But that asymmetry can also be troubling, when you realize that the person you’re trying to be friendly with either doesn’t understand friendship in the same way, or isn’t actually interested. (This can lead to real heartbreak — and has. Nothing can be more discomforting than trying to connect with a person who seems friendly at a distance but disinterested when you get closer! I suppose it must be the same on the other side, although I’ve never been on that end.)

This is not a popular way of understanding friendship, if I’m any judge, although I haven’t done survey research or developed more than anecdotal evidence. People I know who are members of the “Facebook generation” seem to be entirely accepting of its shallow concept of “friend”ship, even if they recognize its very shallowness. Some people would certainly say that my definition of “friend” is far too strong — and obviously I would have a lot more “friends” if I acquiesced and replaced my understanding with a much weaker one. I doubt I would be any less lonely, though: I’d still be looking for people who had a genuine interest in my company, but I would have lost the word that distinguished them from the hundreds of people who merely recognize me in the hallway.

What say you? I’ll be on a train to New York when this post is published, but I’ll be watching for comment notifications.

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Brief blogging outage

I’m going on a short trip starting this weekend. The recipe I was planning to bake would have been a repeat anyway, so I was not going to do a post. I have another post in the works, not food-related, that I hope to get done Saturday. The regular schedule should resume next weekend.

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Other people’s recipes: Joanne Chang’s Classic Carrot Cake

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I made this cake over Labor Day weekend; the first of two carrot cakes I expect to make this year, it comes from Joanne Chang’s first cookbook, Flour (with Christie Matheson; Chronicle Books, 2010; pp. 159ff). The published recipe includes the … Continue reading

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Recipe quick takes: King Arthur Flour’s Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Cookies

This is the second of three promised posts to update you on my recent baking projects. As an occasional customer of King Arthur Flour’s “Baker’s Store”, they send me monthly catalogues, which I mostly just toss in the recycling bin, but from time to time they print recipes that sound interesting. Usually I give up on the recipes fairly quickly when I realize that they are just trying to sell some specialty ingredient or piece of kitchen equipment that I have no particular use for, but from time to time the recipes are actually ones I might do. I had decided not to make Emily Luchetti’s Walnut Cake with Chocolate-Orange Sabayon once I realized that it was strongly coffee-flavored, but didn’t have an alternative recipe in mind until I noticed the August issue of the catalogue on my kitchen table, folded open to a recipe for “Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Cookies” — proudly proclaiming it to be “2015 Recipe of the Year”, whatever that means. It was pretty simple, called for nothing I didn’t already have on hand, and was the sort of thing I could put my own spin on fairly easily.

Mise en place
The mise for this recipe is pretty simple: two sticks (225 g) of room-temperature butter, 7½ oz (210 g) light brown sugar, 3½ oz (100 g) each of rolled oats and white sugar, one large egg plus one yolk, a teaspoon each of baking powder, baking soda, and kosher salt, 18 oz (510 g) of chocolate chips, and 8½ oz (240 g) of flour. For the flour, I used 6 oz (170 g) of regular all-purpose flour and 2½ oz (70 g) of whole sprouted-wheat flour — in a dough like this it’s generally safe to substitute up to half of the white flour with whole wheat, but I didn’t want to add quite so much wheaty flavor. For chocolate chips, I use Guittard’s “Akoma Extra Semisweet” 55% cacao baking chips.

Parchment sheet with 9 50 g dough balls
The assembly procedure is the standard creaming method, which I needn’t go into here. (If you’ve ever made any drop cookies before, you make these the same way.) I used a #30 disher to portion out the cookie dough, forming balls of 45–50 g each. The whole recipe made about 1400 g total, but I, um, ate some, so I only got 27 cookies, which worked out just fine, because at this size you can only fit nine cookies on a standard cookie sheet. (Using baker’s parchment makes clean-up a snap.)

Same parchment sheet, after baking
The dough balls are baked in a 325°F (160°C) oven for about 14 minutes; they are done when they start to set and brown at the very edges, but are still soft and poofy in the center. As they cool on the baking sheet, the centers will collapse, and once the starches have sufficiently set, the cookies can be transferred to a cooling rack. I would recommend baking only one sheet of cookies at a time, rather than trying to do two and shuffling them around in the oven halfway through — that way you can just keep the oven door closed until the very end.

Cookies on a plate, flash
I dirtied this plate just to take a nice picture of the cookies for you! After they were all cooled, I put the cookies into a plastic tub for carrying into work on Monday. Hopefully there will be some left for my coworkers. (hic!)

Nutrition

These cookies can be made in a variety of sizes, but I think this size (about 47 grams raw or 45 grams after baking) is “proper cookie size”. At 219 kcal each, you can be satisfied with just one, or splurge and have two, without having to worry too much about your exercise regimen.

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 1 cookie (about 45 g)
Servings per recipe: 30
Amount per serving
Calories 219 Calories from fat 108
% Daily Value
Total Fat 12g 18%
 Saturated Fat 7g 34%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 28mg 9%
Sodium 99mg 4%
Total Carbohydrate 29g 10%
 Dietary fiber 2g 7%
 Sugars 18g
Proteins 3g 6%
Vitamin A 5%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 1%
Iron 12%
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Bittersweet Chocolate Truffles Four Ways

Perhaps you’ve noticed that I’ve been a bit quiet lately. That’s not because I’ve stopped baking, but a combination of other activities has kept me from having the time and energy to write blog posts for the past week. So I’m going to make up for it by writing three posts in a row, of which this is the first.

I started this dish last Monday — Labor Day — at the same time as I was baking a Joanne Chang-style carrot cake. I hadn’t actually intended to cook two things last weekend (actually three, since I also made Serious Eats’ excellent corn chowder again), but I noticed that I had most of a pint of cream that was about to reach its expiration date, and cream about to expire can mean only one thing: truffles. (Because I don’t really have much use for cream in my everyday life, or even baking, but I always have good chocolate on hand.) I measured the cream, and found that I had about 14 fluid ounces, and turning to Alice Medrich’s Seriously Bitter Sweet, I found a truffle formula that called for 7 fluid ounces of cream and 10 ounces 64–66% chocolate. This was not the recipe that I used last time, but I have always had good luck with Medrich’s recipes. Rather than using one particular chocolate, I ended up mixing together various scraps of chocolates I had in the pantry: some Madécasse 63%, some unidentified block of Callebaut (probably either 60-40 or 70-30, but the thermal printing on the store label had faded too far to tell), and enough Valrhona Caraibe 66% to make up the remainder (about half), for a total of 20 ounces.

Melting chocolate
This recipe calls for melting the chocolate over simmering water, which is easy enough to do, although many ganache recipes don’t call for melting the chocolate at all. After melting nearly all of the chocolate, Medrich says it should be removed from the heat and stirred until the rest of the chocolate is melted, then allowed to cool to about 115°F — I actually found that my melt was cooler than this, and I put it back over the water (no longer being heated but still steaming) to keep it from getting too cool.

Cooling scalded cream
The cream is brought to a full boil and then also allowed to cool to 115°F. This has the effect of denaturing some of the proteins and effectively re-pasteurizing the cream (important for the cooling and crystallization step, which takes overnight at room temperature). I use pure Jersey cream from High Lawn Farm in the Berkshires, which has a higher fat content than standard heavy cream, and it’s also neither ultra-pasteurized nor ultra-homogenized, leading to a shorter shelf life and a tendency to form clumps of butterfat in the bottle. You can see the result of melting these globules of pure butterfat on the surface of the cream: rather than forming a skin of congealed casein (milk protein), this cream forms a layer of fat on top. (Imagine making ganache with raw cream!)

Cooling ganache
Once both have reached the appointed temperature, the cream is whisked vigorously into the melted chocolate, and once fully emulsified, the ganache is poured out onto a plastic-lined quarter-sheet pan and allowed to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, the plastic covering is pulled over the top, and the ganache is left overnight at room temperature to allow the cocoa butter to recrystallize — once this happens, it can safely be refrigerated, which I did the following morning before taking my carrot cake into work.

What IS that yellow stuff?
Tuesday evening, I took the cooled ganache out of the fridge to start forming the truffles, and I was a bit startled by this congealed yellow stuff at the edges of the chocolate. I figured it must be either unemulsified butterfat, or a mixture of butterfat and cocoa butter, but it didn’t taste like anything.

Four powdered coatings
In the title of this post I promised “Truffles Four Ways”, and this is it. I’m not much for tempered chocolate coatings on truffles; I’d rather just have a flavorful powder. In these four bowls, I have chopped hazelnuts — which I really should have re-toasted as they were quite lacking in both flavor and texture, black cocoa, regular Valrhona Dutch-process cocoa, and Chinese five-spice powder.

Truffles Four Ways
I scooped the slightly warmed ganache with a #100 disher, forming balls that I distributed among the four bowls, rolling two truffles at a time in each powder, then placing them on a couple of quarter-sheet pans. I got about 70 truffles total, nearly equally divided among the four kinds, which I refrigerated to re-set the ganache before packing in a plastic container to bring in to the office. I made up two plates of 14 truffles each which I left with colleagues, and for my own group put out another plate of 36. (I also ate some. Burp.) People really liked the five-spice truffles, which makes me want to try infusing the cream with star anise directly — maybe next time I’ll do that.

No nutrition data for these, sorry. They should be very similar to last November’s modulo not knowing the exact chocolates used. Except for the nuts, the coatings make a negligible contribution to any individual truffle (and I didn’t bother to measure exactly how much of each was used).

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Recipe quick takes: Pierre Hermé’s Moist and Nutty Brownies

This is the last of the “easy midweek” recipes from my summer baking project. If you read my “Coming Attractions” post, you were perhaps expecting “Banana Crunch Cake” from King Arthur Flour’s Whole Grain Baking, but I decided to bag that recipe and do something that wasn’t on the original list I started this project with back in June: “Moist and Nutty Brownies” from Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé (Little, Brown, 2001; p. 61). This is an incredibly easy and simple brownie, with only six ingredients, that won rave reviews at work when I brought them in.

Mise en place
Those are the six ingredients: 145 g of toasted and lightly chopped pecans, 145 g of Valrhona Caraïbe 66% baking chocolate (called out explicitly in the recipe), 260 g of unsalted butter, 250 g of sugar, 140 g of all-purpose flour, and four eggs. The recipe specifies that the nut pieces should be large, and I rather agree — I’ve made brownies with supermarket chopped nuts, and the texture that you get from larger, less uniform pieces is vastly superior. Hermé, writing for himself in a sidebar, notes that while walnuts are traditional, he prefers pecans for this recipe; I personally prefer walnuts pretty much all the time to pecans, but since I have a coworker who’s allergic to walnuts, and since Hermé himself suggests using pecans, I went with the flow and used them myself.

The batter is prepared by first melting and cooling the chocolate, then beating the butter until smooth before mixing the cooled but still liquid chocolate into the butter. Eggs, sugar, flour, and nuts are added, in that order, taking care not to overmix or beat air into the batter. (I used a hand mixer through adding the sugar, then switched to folding with a rubber spatula for the flour and nuts.) The batter is poured into a 9×13×2 baking pan which has been prepared with baking spray and a parchment sling, and baked in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 19 minutes.

Baked pan of brownies on cooling rack
After baking, the brownies are still quite soft, moist, and dense, and must cool in the pan for half an hour or so. (I actually gave them about 45 minutes.)

Brownies after extraction
I used the parchment sling to remove the brownies from the pan and let them cool on the rack overnight, inverting the pan over the top of the brownies to cover them. Because they are still sitting on top of the parchment, there’s no issue with the soft brownies sinking through and getting stuck on the wires of the cooling rack.

Portioned brownies ready for transport
The recipe calls for larger than usual portions, with a total yield of 18 (versus 24 for a more typical recipe baked in this size of pan). Even at the somewhat increased size, they are still very easy to munch through without realizing — if like me you need to watch what you eat, I’d advise giving these away as quickly as possible!

Nutrition

This recipe is considered “A Very Low Sodium Food” under FDA guidelines.

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 2⅙″×3″ bar
Servings per recipe: 18
Amount per serving
Calories 296 Calories from fat 189
% Daily Value
Total Fat 21g 33%
 Saturated Fat 10g 49%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 71mg 24%
Sodium 16mg 1%
Potassium 33mg 1%
Total Carbohydrate 23g 8%
 Dietary fiber 2g 9%
 Sugars 17g
Proteins 4g 7%
Vitamin A 9%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 1%
Iron 6%
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Recipe quick takes: King Arthur Flour’s Chocolate Zucchini Cake

It’s that time of year again, when people in small towns all over this country lock their cars and their back doors to forestall neighborly gifts of summer squash. Here in the big city, we always lock our doors, and we have to pay real money for our zucchini, but we are probably still getting a bit tired of the elongated green gourd, and looking for something useful to do with it that doesn’t involve either frying it or dumping slices in the steamer basket. And as a college friend of mine once said, “Anything can be good and useful if it’s made of chocolate!” So, therefore, it’s time for chocolate zucchini cake. This recipe comes from King Arthur Flour’s Whole Grain Baking (Countryman Press, 2006; p. 426), and it’s the last of the King Arthur whole-grain recipes on my agenda until December. (I changed my mind about banana crunch cake and peanut butter cream pie, previously scheduled for September.) This cake has an unusual assembly method, as is often the case for cakes that incorporate fruits or vegetables, so let’s see how it came together.

Mise en place
We start, of course, with the mise en place. The recipe calls for all traditional whole-wheat flour; I had a few ounces of whole spelt flour, and a fresh bag of sprouted whole wheat flour, both of which can be substituted for regular whole wheat (the total quantity is 10 oz or 280 g). The leavening, which I added directly to the flour, is a teaspoon of baking powder, with a teaspoon of soda added to react with a half-cup of nonfat buttermilk that’s part of the wet works. Other dry ingredients include a half-teaspoon of salt, 6 ounces (170 g) of semisweet chocolate chips, and 1½ oz (45 g) of natural (not Dutch-process) cocoa powder. The wet team, in addition to the buttermilk, includes three eggs, 7½ oz (210 g) of light brown sugar, 3½ oz (100 g) of white sugar, and — most unusually — 4 ounces (115 g) of either butter or vegetable oil. If either butter or oil was acceptable, I figured melted butter must be acceptable as well, so I melted a stick of butter in the microwave, using the Pyrex bowl I intended to mix everything in anyway. Finally, there’s the zucchini. The recipe calls for a pound of shredded zucchini, but it also gives a volumetric measurement, two cups, and I found that two cups of firmly packed shredded zucchini, as measured using my Adjust-a-Cup measure, was actually more like 12 ounces (340 g) than a pound (450 g) — which was good, because it meant that I didn’t have to shred a fractional zucchini.

(Ever wonder why it is that we use an Italian word, and the Brits use a French word, to talk about a New World gourd? The generic term, “squash”, is from Narragansett; “zucchini” and “courgette” are diminutives of the respective Italian and French words for “gourd”, referring to the fact that these fruit are picked and eaten in the immature state — a mature gourd is called a “marrow” in Britain, and “inedible” in America. The OED says, with regard to “marrow” in this sense, that “the development … is uncertain” — but the term was first used in reference to the avocado rather than the squash.)

Butter-sugar mixture
Unlike many of the cakes I’ve done this summer, this one is not made by the creaming method — that would be impossible to do, if one were using the vegetable oil option, although I could have done it if I hadn’t melted the butter. Doing it this way allowed me to keep the flavor of the butter without having to wait for it to soften sufficiently to cream with the sugar — the result is obviously very different looking. Melting the butter liberates the water contained within, which dissolves a small fraction of the sugar, but mostly this still looks like a big lump of brown sugar.

All the wet ingredients
After mixing in the eggs, vanilla, and buttermilk, the batter is quite loose and looks a bit curdled — probably because the eggs and buttermilk were still a little cold, so some of the butterfat resolidified rather than being emulsified with the eggs.

Finished batter
The dry ingredients are whisked together and added in two lifts, with the shredded zucchini in between, giving what is still a fairly wet, barely pourable batter. Chocolate chips are stirred in along with the second half of the dry ingredients. I chose to bake this cake in a 10-inch (250 mm) tube pan, previously lubricated with baking spray. It’s cooked for about 45 minutes in a 350°F (175°C) oven, until a tester inserted in the center comes out moist but clean.

Fully baked cake, cooling on a rack
After cooling the cake in its pan for about 15 minutes, I turned it out onto the rack to finish cooling. A few of the chocolate chips stuck to the bottom of the tube pan, leaving voids in the top of the cake, but that will be fixed by covering the cake in a simple chocolate glaze — a ganache, in fact, made from 4½ oz (130 g) of chocolate chips, a half-cup (120 ml) of heavy cream, and a couple teaspoons of corn syrup (honey or glucose syrup would do as well).

Cake with chocolate ganache glaze

When I brought it in to work, I was the only person who could taste the zucchini. Most people quite liked it, and one taster raved. The zucchini did what it was supposed to do, imparting moistness and a soft texture to the cake without interfering with the chocolate flavor.

Nutrition

Unlike most tube cake recipes, this one is specified to make 16 servings (as opposed to 20). If you leave off the glaze, the servings are about 90 g each and 50 kcal cheaper.

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 1/16 of a glazed 10″ tube cake
Servings per recipe: 16
Amount per serving
Calories 326 Calories from fat 169
% Daily Value
Total Fat 16g 24%
 Saturated Fat 9g 45%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 60mg 20%
Sodium 209mg 9%
Potassium 81mg 2%
Total Carbohydrate 45g 15%
 Dietary fiber 4g 17%
 Sugars 30g
Proteins 6g 12%
Vitamin A 8%
Vitamin C 6%
Calcium 6%
Iron 18%
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A layer cake for a party with nuts and two kinds of chocolate

This gallery contains 10 photos.

Early last week, my colleague Marzyeh invited me to an end-of-summer party she and her husband Eric were holding on Saturday at the picnic area outside their apartment building. They were providing (and Eric was grilling) the protein, but they … Continue reading

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Recipe quick take: Emily Luchetti’s Walnut Hazelnut Bars

Straight off, I have to admit that this recipe was a bit more involved than my initial impression had suggested, making it unsuitable for the “easy midweek” tranche of my summer baking project, and as a result I screwed several steps up. However, it still came out OK. These bar cookies — from Emily Luchetti’s A Passion for Desserts (Chronicle Books, 2003; p. 64) — are essentially two layers of a rolled-out shortbread surrounding a caramel-nut filling. A majority of tasters liked it, but a significant minority (OK, three people) thought that the filling was far too sweet — although the floral notes from the honey were universally praised. I personally would have preferred a thicker, darker caramel, not to mention construction instructions that gave a precise temperature rather than a qualitative description.

Blanched, toasted hazelnuts
I started out some days earlier, by blanching and then toasting hazelnuts. There are two ways to remove hazelnut skins: the hard way, which is to toast them and then rub the skins off, and the easy way (described, among other places, in Rosetta Costantino’s Southern Italian Desserts, which was the reference I used), which is to blanch them in boiling alkalized water and then squeeze the skins off. The trouble with the blanching method is that you then have to dry the hazelnuts before you can do anything useful with them, and if you don’t get the cooking time right, your hazelnuts can end up waterlogged. For this recipe I just went ahead and toasted them; it takes a bit of extra time to dry the nuts out. I’m not sure if I would bother to do this again, as it was a bit of a pain. (I’ll have another opportunity in the next few days.)

Mise en place for shortbread
The crust, as I mentioned, is essentially a shortbread: lots of butter (10 ounces or 280 g). sugar (7 oz or 200 g), and flour (14⅞ oz or 420 g); the butter and sugar are creamed, then an egg is beaten in to provide enough liquid to moisten the flour, and finally the flour itself. Surprisingly, there is absolutely no salt in this recipe, either in the crust or in the caramel — I suspect it could have used some.

Shortbread dough after resting
Unlike the typical shortbread, this dough is rolled out like a pie crust — after resting in the refrigerator for the customary half-hour. I found it a bit too soft and fragile after just half an hour, and gave it additional chilling to make it workable. It’s hard to see how the usual press-in method would work for making the top layer, so rolling is probably the best way. I found, however, that rolling a rectangular crust (this dish is baked in a 9×13 pan) is rather more of a challenge than making something round enough to fit a pie plate.

Baked bottom layer
The bottom layer is fitted into the lubricated baking pan and docked before baking in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 20 minutes to set.

Nut-caramel layer
The nut-caramel filling is applied directly on top of the bottom crust. Here is where most of the things I screwed up were: I neglected to chop the walnuts after toasting them — I think they were supposed to be in pieces approximately the same size as a hazelnut — and I didn’t let the filling cool in the mixing bowl as I should have before pouring it into the baking pan. The caramel itself is a little odd, and the recipe calls for strange quantities of sticky, viscous liquids that make me nearly certain that it was scaled down from a larger recipe: who would ever write a recipe calling for five teaspoons of corn syrup (or water or honey)? The other ingredients in the caramel are 10½ oz (300 g) of granulated sugar, 1¼ tsp of lemon juice, ½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream, and ⅓ cup (80 ml) milk. The finished caramel is mixed with 1 lb (450 g) of toasted nuts — I suspect you could use pecans, macadamias, or any other nut that’s sufficiently soft. After spreading the caramel-nut mixture on top of the bottom crust, the top crust is laid on top and brushed with an egg wash before returning to the oven for another 20 minutes.

Fully baked and portioned bars
Luchetti recommends a yield of 32 bars from this recipe. I didn’t manage to get quite there; I initially cut it into 24 rather uneven quadrilaterals, but then decided to cut the biggest column in half, giving the 28 bars seen here. I took the whole pan to work with me, as I expected the caramel to be messy, and used a rubber spatula to lever the bars out of the pan for service at the lunch table. Once about half of them were gone, it was clear that the caramel had set up sufficiently to transfer the remaining bars to paper plates and take the pan away to be washed before someone could damage the non-stick coating by splitting bars with a sharp knife.

Nutrition

The following computation is based on Luchetti’s published yield of 32 bars per recipe. As pictured, your guess is as good as mine.

Nutrition Facts
Serving size: 2¼”x1¾” rectangle
Servings per recipe: 32
Amount per serving
Calories 283 Calories from fat 162
% Daily Value
Total Fat 18g 27%
 Saturated Fat 6g 31%
Trans Fat 0g
Cholesterol 28mg 9%
Sodium 4mg 0%
Total Carbohydrate 28g 9%
 Dietary fiber 1g 6%
 Sugars 16g
Proteins 4g 8%
Vitamin A 6%
Vitamin C 1%
Calcium 2%
Iron 6%
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Other people’s recipes: King Arthur Flour’s Lemon-Raspberry Cake

This gallery contains 11 photos.

Last weekend’s baking project was the Lemon-Raspberry Cake from King Arthur Flour’s Whole Grain Baking (Countryman Press, 2006; p. 375). In yesterday’s post, I went into the details of buttercream frosting, which is an important part of this cake — but … Continue reading

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